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Shop,
dine and enjoy those Turkish nights
Istanbul's Grand Bazaar is heaven for souvenir-sekers, but you'll find
sensational shops all over the city, selling everything from coffee to
cocktail frocs. We also reveal the best restaurants and where to go
after dark.
It's easy to imagine that shopping in Istanbul begins and ends at the
Grand Bazaar, After all, the 500-year-old Kapali Carsi, to give it its
correct nam, is the bazaar to and all bazaars. A vast labyrinth of 4000
shops (1600 jewellers alone) and 65 dome-topped streets lit by shafts of
sunlight piercing the vaulted ceiling, it has its own mosques, banks,
police stations, restaurants, and cafes, even a Turkish bath. And not a
price in sight. This is not the Oriental nightmare it first seems, as
each street has its own speciality, from silversmiths to carpets,
ceramics and furs.
But the Kapali Carsi is just a fraction of the city's brillant shopping.
Across the Golden Horn in Beyoglu, the backstreet of Istiklal Caddesi
are a goldmine of antique shops and art galleries. Grab a cab to the
baute couture quarter of Nisantasi where chic Istanbullus snap up
international brand names such as Max Mara and Gucci and local designers
striving to be the next Rifat Ozbek. Wherever you are, keep an eye out
for the magic Turkish word indirim - it means there's a sale.
FIVE FAVOURITE SHOPS
KURUKAHVECI MEHMET EFENDI
(Tahmis Sok 66, +00 90 212 511 4262). In the maze of alleyways running
up the Grand Bazaar, between spice shops and olive-sellers, this
fragrant coffee shop is the place to try the definiitive Turkish Coffee
and then buy some bags to take home (just 70p per pound!)
LIBRAIRIE DE PERA
(Galip Dede Sokak 22, Tunel; +00 90 212 245 4998). For 100 years, this
refined antiquarian book and print emporium has been the place for any
published work on Istanbul. You'll at least end up buying some of their
beutiful old postcards, starting from each.
AKMERKEZ
(Nispetiye Caddesi Akmerkez 363, Etiler). This glass and metal edifice
is Istanbul's prime designer shopping mall. Head for David People, Mudo
Collection, Cascade and Limon boutiques. And don't miss the sensuous
lingerie and nightwear of Ipek Kramer.
ARTISAN
(Zafer Sokak 5, Nişantaşı; +00 90 212 231 6433). Visit couture queen
Bilge Mestci's Nişantaşı studio to marvel at her lavish evening robes
and cocktail dresses in delicate silks, lush velvets, hand embroidery
and antique lace.
SISKO OSMAN
(Grand Bazaar, Halıcılar Caddesi 49, tel: +00 90 212 526 1708).
Everyonewants to buy a carpet from Istanbul. Head straight for the most
famous dealer in the Grand Bazaar, Sisko Osman. Celebrities flock here
and though prices are high, the quality is impeccable. If all you want
is a souvenir, try The Seven Brothers in the middle of the Grand Bazaar
(Perdahcılar Sok 24; +00 90 212 527 4975)
Your guide to haggling in the Grand Bazaar
Half a million visitors stream through the Grand Bazaar daily, and you
can spot first - timers by their bewildered looks. Here's how to fit in
- and bag a bargain.
* Don't be shy to accept the offer of a tea or coffee every trader will
make you.
* Have a firm idea of what you want to pay and stick to that price
throughout your bargaining.
* Remember that however many times you say, "I'll leave it" or, "It's
too expensive" and walk away, the trader will always call you back.
* There's no way to determine whether antiques or carpets are authentic,
so buy only what you really like regardless.
* Most traders take credits cards, but you'll get a better price if you
pay cash. Hard currency - US dollars for preference - is a much better
bet than Turkih lire. |